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A delicious walk through Sham Shui Po

Time Out Hong Kong
  • Written by Time Out Hong Kong
Communal Dining
Renee So, owner of Kung Wo Beancurd Factory, recommends eateries and sites loved by locals

Renee So has spent most of her life in Sham Shui Po. Growing up, her family operated a fruit and vegetable hawker stall right opposite Kung Wo Beancurd Factory. “I was still young back then and we had to move a lot of heavy goods. It was really tough work. Thankfully, the neighbours in the area always helped out,” Ms So says, adding that this human kindness is what defines Sham Shui Po. Ms So’s family became the owners of Kung Wo in the mid-1990s. She was working in the finance industry at the time but eventually left that career to return to the neighbourhood she grew up in. “In Sham Shui Po, the local eateries and cafés are gathering places for those who live here,” she explains. Kung Wo is among the eateries frequented by locals, but Ms So also has other favourites in the area. “We know all the restaurant-owners around us and we support one another,” she says. “There’s a really strong sense of community here.”


San Lung Cake Shop

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This neighbourhood gem sells traditional Chinese sweets, from black sesame cakes to flaky pastries filled with whole century eggs. It’s also one of the few places left in Hong Kong that handmakes and bakes its mooncakes fresh to order. A true labour of love, these pastries sell hundreds a day in the lead-up to the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Kung Wo Beancurd Factory

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Kung Wo has been in Sham Shui Po since the late 1950s. The old-school store sells various soy products, which have remained popular throughout the years. The signature tofu puddings are smooth as silk and boast a rich soybean flavour. The beancurd puffs, deep-fried tofu and homemade sugar-free soy milk are also worth trying.

Wai Kee Noodle Cafe

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This local cha chaan teng is known for its pig’s liver noodles. It might not sound the most appealing, but locals and tourists alike make the journey to Sham Shui Po for this unique dish. If liver is not to your taste, you can also choose beef, ham, egg or sausage. If you fancy something sweeter, be sure to go for the kaya French toast.

Heritage Tea House

Stop 4 - Heritage Tea House

Tucked away inside the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, the Heritage Tea House Get me there {{title}} Address {{address}} Website {{website}} More info is a great place to enjoy a traditional Chinese brew. Aside from offering an extensive selection of tea leaves, ranging from subtle green teas to bold black teas from Kunming, the tea house also offers dim sum items and snacks such as dumplings and pan-fried pork buns.

Luk Lam Dessert

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Luk Lam has remained a neighbourhood favourite since opening its doors in Sham Shui Po more than 30 years ago. The shop specialises in traditional Chinese desserts such as sweet soups made from red bean, nuts or black sesame. If you want something more novel, Luk Lam also offers creative new sweets such as tofu pudding and durian pancake.

Lau Sum Kee Noodle

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Founded more than 60 years ago, this old-school restaurant still makes its noodles from scratch – a real rarity in Hong Kong. Second-generation owner, Lau Fat-cheong, carries on the family tradition of kneading dough with a heavy bamboo pole to create a firmer and more textured noodle. The restaurant’s lo mein (dry noodles) are a must-try, and are famously served with a massive portion of dried shrimp roe to give them a huge umami punch.

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