Markets for Leisure and Pleasure

Once an old Chinese shophouse or tong lau, Lui Seng Chun is a heritage-listed pre-Second World War building featuring a verandah-type style of construction typical of the period. In 2008, Hong Kong Baptist University, with financial assistance from the government revitalised the building, transforming it into the Hong Kong Baptist University School of Chinese Medicine — Lui Seng Chun. It now includes an herbal tea shop on the ground floor as well as a display explaining the old Lui Seng Chun. The remainder of the building is dedicated to the practice of traditional Chinese medicine.

The charming Chinese-style garden on Yuen Po Street includes some 70 songbird stalls as well as courtyards and moon gates. Look and listen, but please avoid physical contact with the birds. The colourful and aromatic Flower Market sells everything from Dutch tulips to exotic orchids, while the Goldfish Market on nearby Tung Choi Street is where you can find more than just those friendly little orange creatures: aquariums, corals and exotic fish also abound here.

Fa Yuen Street is the place to be if you want to find bargain-priced trendy fashion and casual wear for men, women and children.

Despite its misleading name that has stuck over the years, the Ladies’ Market has something for all ages and genders, with bargain-priced items, including men’s and women’s clothing, knick knacks, watches and beauty products. Lined beside its street stalls are plenty of Hong Kong-style cafes ready to dish out local favourites.

Built in 1930, the Yau Ma Tei Theatre is the only surviving pre-war cinema building in Hong Kong. The theatre closed down in 1998 and was listed as a historic building in the same year.

It has since reopened as a venue dedicated to Cantonese opera and features young up-and-coming performers. And, some of the shows come with English surtitles, so non-Cantonese speakers can also enjoy the action on stage.

After your visit to the theatre, don’t miss the attractive red brick building on the opposite side of Shanghai Street, which houses the theatre’s administration offices.

Shanghai Street (Yau Ma Tei section) is one of Hong Kong’s oldest thoroughfares and still has a number of preserved old Chinese shop-house buildings. It’s also where you should head if you’re looking to stock up your kitchen with that perfect accessory! Expect to find local staples, such as traditional thick chopping boards and bamboo steaming baskets used for dim sum.

China’s most revered green stone is in abundance here, with around 400 registered stall owners ready to pitch jade amulets, ornaments, necklaces and trinkets. This is a fun place to browse and perhaps buy an inexpensive memento of your visit, but think twice about forking out for anything costly unless you are a jade expert. Nearby is ‘Jade Street’, located on Canton Road between Kansu Street and Jordan Road, and jade and gemstone testing is available at Jade Plaza. Take note of the huge jade stone at the junction of Canton Road and Jordan Road; this local landmark weighs three tons!

Tin Hau temple is dedicated to the revered Goddess of the Sea, Tin Hau. Its location in the middle of urban Yau Ma Tei might seem odd, but long ago, before massive land reclamation in the area, it was actually positioned on the waterfront! While the water may have receded, people continue to worship Tin Hau here.

This is where Hong Kong’s famous night market begins to awake just as the surrounding city turns in for the night. You can find all manner of bargains here, including casual clothes and curios. You’ll also often run into fortune tellers, Cantonese opera singers and professional Chinese chess players. Two new Chinese pai laus (archways) have been erected at the market’s junctions with Jordan Road and Kansu Street.