Your guide to Hong Kong’s newest Michelin-starred restaurants
Written by Localiiz
Hong Kong’s continuing conquest of Michelin stars continues with success as 12 Hong Kong restaurants found placement or promotion among the studded rungs of the Michelin ladder. The 2023 edition of the guide highlights 77 starred restaurants in Hong Kong. New to the hallowed halls this year are an overwhelming selection of Chinese and Japanese establishments — classic Cantonese dishes are refined, while haute Hong Kong cuisine and innovative Japanese omakase take hold.
For the Green Star, awarded to establishments at the forefront of sustainable dining, one restaurant was newly commended this year. On the Bib Gourmand list, presented to eateries offering a three-course meal at wallet-friendly prices, 68 eateries in Hong Kong were honoured. Read on for what to expect from the latest and greatest among Hong Kong’s Michelin-recognised restaurants.
One Michelin star
Neapolitan cuisine comes to the forefront at Chef Antimo Maria Merone’s first restaurant, Estro, opened in partnership with Hong Kong hospitality group JIA Group. Homemade pasta is the highlight of the food programme, with two dinner menus to choose from — six or eight courses — while multiple seafood dishes pay homage to coastal flavours. Over 1,000 labels are available here, so the wine pairings are well taken care of. Warm, tan colours, punctuated by blues and greens, lead the interior design to create a chic yet comfortable environment.
Chances are, you’ve never come across a restaurant quite like this. Godenya is known as a ‘sake-pairing restaurant’, meaning that the same measure of special attention given to the food is extended to the choosing and serving of sake. Chef Goshima Shinya helms the restaurant and crafts just the one omakase menu, which highlights kappo cuisine made with seasonal produce imported from Japan. Godenya is usually booked months ahead, so prior planning is highly recommended.
Kappo Rin (Japanese)
An intimate eight-seater restaurant that was born out of a collaboration between Tokyo’s Sushi Yoshitake in Tokyo and Hong Kong’s Sushi Shikon, Kappo Rin’s omakase menus are sophisticated, fresh, and innovative, elevated by the seasonal ingredients that form its raw and cooked dishes. Sit back and let your taste buds be pampered by the natural flavours of Japanese produce at its finest.
When Kashiwaya, the Hong Kong outpost of the same-named Osaka-based kaiseki restaurant, closed, discerning diners mourned; but the restaurant’s ex-head chef, Teruhiko Nagamoto, soon returned to open his eponymous dining concept, offering shun cuisine — using ingredients only during their peak when they are at their most flavourful — in an omakase format. Nagamoto’s unique approach promises guests the singular experience of tasting hyper-seasonal produce, and the counter-only configuration of the interiors ensures exclusivity and intimacy with every meal.
Neighborhood (European Contemporary)
A minimalist restaurant with a short menu to match, Neighborhood is an intimate destination helmed by Chef David Lai, a Hong Kong native who honed his skills in the US. The rotating menu of ever-changing seasonal dishes, served tapas style, comes with a focus on seafood. But the must-order item is surely the restaurant’s famous salt-baked chicken rice with giblets and morels.
Noi (Italian Contemporary)
Located inside the Four Seasons hotel, with stylish interiors designed by AB Concept, Noi delivers multi-course omakase menus leaning on Italian and Japanese flavours and ingredients. Headed up by Chef Paulo Airaudo, of Michelin-starred Amelia in San Sebastian, the experience is elegant, spirited, and flavourful. Expect lots of raw seafood dishes, prepared in a crudo di pesce style.
The Chairman (Cantonese)
New location, new look, but same award-winning quality and finesse — The Chairman re-enters the list and promises to continue delivering the classic dishes that made the restaurant legendary. Modern, elegant interiors dotted with lush green accents contribute to the fine-dining experience of Cantonese dishes made from locally sourced ingredients from the restaurant’s own farm in Hong Kong. Try the signature steamed flowery crab with Huadiao wine.
The Demon Celebrity (Cantonese)
For a novel take on haute Hong Kong cuisine, try The Demon Celebrity, a collaboration between ‘Demon Chef’ Alvin Leung and Cheng Kam-fu of the now-defunct Celebrity Cuisine, a recipient of two Michelin stars in its time. Combining their abilities to present innovative Cantonese cuisine that play on familiar and nostalgic flavours, the chefs balance the menu with dishes like fried pork intestine stuffed with minced cuttlefish and black truffle and chicken wing stuffed with bird’s nest.
Promoted to three Michelin stars
Ta Vie (Innovative Japanese-French)
A new three-Michelin-starred restaurant has been crowned, and this one celebrates the core principles of ‘less is more’ in a way that means ‘pure, simple, and seasonal’. Helmed by Chef Hideaki Sato, Ta Vie, inside The Pottinger hotel, is an ode to the beauty of premium seasonal ingredients at their very best. The experimental approach to Japanese food combinations served here works to highlight the depth of natural flavours through French preparation techniques.
Promoted to two Michelin stars
Bo Innovation (Innovative Cantonese)
Following a move of premises to Central in 2022, Bo Innovation reappears on the Michelin list, a nod to the ongoing accomplishments of chef-owner Alvin Leung. Diners come for innovative dishes with a Hong Kong-inspired touch, and the dinner tasting menu features dishes inspired by famous art and artists. Highlights include the Soup by Andy and The Birth of Venus courses.
Lai Ching Heen (Cantonese)
With the return of the Regent came the reopening of Lai Ching Heen, reverting to its original name from Yan Toh Heen. Classic Cantonese dishes remain on the menu, and old favourites are retained for a touch of nostalgia. The chef duo of Lau Yiu-fai and Cheng Man-sang work magic in the kitchen to deliver must-order highlights such as Peking duck, fortune chicken and barbecued suckling pig. Don’t miss the exquisite, curated tea menu, and enjoy the views overlooking Victoria Harbour.
Headed up by veteran chef Hung Chi-kwong, this superb Chinese restaurant at the St. Regis hotel was honoured with a second Michelin star this year. A place where contemporary and classic Cantonese dishes take the stage, Rùn’s original take is exemplified through its Hong Kong-style specialities, such as the creative deep-fried diced Wagyu beef puff and barbecued Ibérico pork with honey and marinated jellyfish, sesame oil and vinegar. Best of all, Rùn caters to diners with different dietary preferences with its vegetarian and gluten-free tasting menus.
Michelin Green Star
Mora (Innovative French-Chinese)
Featuring soya beans as the core of its menu to demonstrate the versatility of the humble ingredient, Mora is a modern, creative concept headed up by Chef Vicky Lau, who also owns and runs the one-Michelin-starred Tate Dining Room. Local and sustainable produce are procured through conscious sourcing and red meats, vegetables, and seafoods serve as supporting characters to highlight the diverse applications, textures, and flavours of soy.
Fisholic (North Point) (International)
If you love fish as much as Fisholic does, then this is a match made in food heaven. Come here for creative street food reimagined in a colourful environment, and a playful menu of snacks and noodles all made with fish, such as seafood noodles, fish skin with dip, and fish as chips with dip. Great for informal meals or quick casual bites.
Sai Kwan Lo Jo (Chinese)
Don’t judge this hole-in-the-wall, takeout-only street food stall by its humble appearance; the traditional and novelty bites served here at Sai Kwan Lo Jo are based on Xiguan-style food, and truly hit the spot. Order the popular lai fun noodles and deep-fried sticky rice dumplings, and enjoy the casual atmosphere of eating piping hot pick-me-ups right by the Ferry Point shopfront.
Missing Thailand? Opt in for a dose of retro-inspired, tropical-style decor at this fun, vibrant destination, and tuck into a menu of Isan plates from north-eastern Thailand, prepared by a Thai team. Saya is popular for its great value-for-money lunch menu, and signature dishes that are not to be missed include the giant prawns with glass noodles and the crabmeat omelette.
Ship Kee (Cantonese)
If your stomach desires tried-and-true traditional Cantonese classics, you can’t go wrong with the banquet-style dining offered at Ship Kee. With a barbecue chef boasting over 40 years of experience at the helm, the highly recommended speciality of honey glazed barbecue pork is not to be missed. Freshly made dim sum comes courtesy of a master chef with over 30 years of experience at his craft.
Twins Liangpi Limited (Prince Edward) (Chinese)
For a wallet-friendly, no-frills snack, check out Twins Liangpi Limited. Icy cold glass noodles, dressed in various toppings and sauces, are served at this underrated street stall, making for a refreshing cool dish prepared with peanuts, peas, coriander, and cucumber for a melange of textures and flavours. It’s also a popular destination for dessert; order the cold jelly in dark brown sugar syrup when you’re here.
Yi Jia (Shanghainese, Sichuan)
Quirky and whimsical, diners can travel back in time at Yi Jia, a small cafe-like eatery with hip, retro-inspired interiors. A slew of hearty, home-style Shanghainese small plates and Sichuan dishes make up the menu, and the lunch sets and rice and noodle sets are especially affordable options. Try the pork spare ribs with Zhenjiang vinaigrette, the hairy crab menu items and pan-fried dumplings.
Click here to see the full list of Michelin-starred restaurants for 2023.
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