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Yuen Long
in the northwest New Territories is a post-war new town set in the centre
of Hong Kong's largest alluvial plain. To some, the name Yuen Long conjures
up a picture of a busy high street, the fast-growing new town area of
Tin Shui Wai and secluded period mansions. But behind all these are ancient
walled villages and historic monuments. The tranquil old-time charm of
Yuen Long District is as appealing as its modern impressions.
Kat Hing Wai
in Kam Tin is one of the District's best known walled villages. It is
the ancestral home of the Tangs, a famous clan in the territory. Built
by the family 500 years ago, it is a rectangular walled village measuring
100 metres by 90 metres. As a family stronghold, Kat Hing Wai has served
the Tangs well through the centuries. In the Kang Xi Era of the Qing Dynasty,
when bandits were a menace, a five-metre high blue brick wall and four
cannon towers were added to fend off invaders. Extra defensive power was
provided by archers' stations on the wall, while a moat offered further
protection.
Inside
Kat Hing Wai, traditional village houses are neatly arranged and separated
by narrow lanes. Some of the houses, dating back to the Qing Dynasty,
are designed in the typical pan handle shape. Over the years, the village
has seen the addition of several more modern villas. Some say these modern
structures ruin the old village charm of Kat Hing Wai, while others say
this fine case of "East meets West" adds character to the village.
The walled village
is fronted by a heavy cast iron gate with large round knockers. This weathered
and rusty gate stands witness to Kat Hing Wai's glories and crises over
the centuries. Removed and taken to Ireland in the late 19th century,
it went missing for some 20 years before finally being located and returned
to the village.
If you are interested
in the district's ancient relics, the Ping Shan Heritage Trail in western
Yuen Long is not to be missed. This one-kilometre trail links several
historic buildings, like the Tang Ancestral Hall, Sheung Cheung Wai, Hung
Shing Temple and Yang Hau Temple, to form a fascinating historic walk.
Near Sheung Cheung Wai, there is a hexagonal pagoda called Tsui Shing
Lau that dates back over 600 years. It is the only ancient pagoda in Hong
Kong.
Tsui Shing Lau was
formerly known as the Fui Shing Pagoda, or Man Pagoda. This blue brick
and granite structure once had seven storeys, but after years of exposure
to the elements, only three levels remain. The pagoda is probably a
fung shui building. It has been suggested that it was built to fend
off an evil chi from the north, as well as to prevent flooding.
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